darkSpyro

Quote: Pyrofer

Ok, forgive this as I did it in all of 30 seconds.

Plus, I am guessing the values! (for all components)...



Top wire is 5v, bottom is ground.

The NOT gate IC will have connections for +v and gnd that are not shown on here.

Have you tested this or is this just theorycraft? I ordered 13.56 mhz oscillators from ebay and I am going to try this out! Also, I have a xbox wired portal and will soon be able to pull this baby apart after the swapforce games arrives.

This is all theory, but it should be good

You can easily remove the active part of the portal from the plastic frame without damage, this would leave you with a naked portal PCB and antenna as well as a hollow plastic portal to put stuff in.

After researching, I found this. It has schematics and everything. Do you think it will light up the lightcores?

http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/fo...topic.php?74096

Interesting....he is creating a mhz wave that is quit large...so i might work. Corse you would need something rather big to hold that device in once built. (becaues it sitting on the shelf beside or behind your LC an Giant figures would look a bit odd...LOL..not to mechin' all the dust it would collect.)

If it doesn't match the frequency of the figures it won't work. Also, it could damage them.

I would advise against that.

If you want a SIMPLE solution with a little money, then the following work,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RFID...o-/200892882864
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-...e-/251331809201

A couple wires between them and I can publish the code to light up the figures using this.
I can make it flash too if required, I don't think that is very expensive and doesn't require any other parts (PSU of course!)

Quote: Pyrofer

If it doesn't match the frequency of the figures it won't work. Also, it could damage them.

True...but if you use your meter, and make sure you get a stable 13.56 mhz before you put your Skylanders anywhere near it...they will be fine.
And if 13.56 mhz isn't the corect frequency...just put your meter over your portal to get the exact mhz number.
(I don't have a #mhz meter anymore...mine died a loonnnnggg time ago...don't need it anymore, so never got a new one)
But those you found on e-bay Pyrofer are quit cool...and would do just fine also.

has anyone took constructing your own emitter to light up the figures past "theory" yet?

Not only can I light the figures but I can read the data with my DIY portal made from the bits I linked on eBay.
Granted, that comes to a bit more than most people want to spend which is why I put the schematic.

I am working on an easy hack for the wireless portal which you can buy on ebay for $10 or so with no USB receiver (none needed). All that would be needed for this hack is a programmed AVR chip and some basic soldering skills.

For the cheapest build, look here,

http://www.newark.com/avx/k50-...-smd/dp/33K9509 (Prepare for some mad soldering if you use this exact module, it's meant to be surface mount)

All you really need on this is the output stage as this does everything for you, simply outputting a ready made 13.56mhz square wave from a 5v supply.
(On second thoughts, there may need to be a diode in the output stage to protect the transistor from back EMF, I am not an electronics engineer so not entirely sure)

i would be interested in paying for a premade model if anyone makes one. i would like to put all lights on one shelf and have them all be able to light up. It would also be cool to add a switch to turn it on and off.

How much would you be willing to pay? That is the question.

The "cheap" options cost in time. That is fine if you DIY but my time is worth quite a bit to me.
The more expensive solutions are a lot quicker to make, but the "parts" cost more.

Would you spend $50- $60 on this? It could probably be done for close to that but then postage (I am in the UK) would suck.

The best option I have come up with so far is the simple wireless portal mod. There are plenty around that have missing receivers and would be perfect donor portals. You also get the advantage they are battery powered and look "Skylander" enough for display.

I will let people know if I get this working well enough that I could sell the chips.

sounds like a good price to me. shipping might suck though

Quote: Pyrofer

For the cheapest build, look here,

http://www.newark.com/avx/k50-...-smd/dp/33K9509 (Prepare for some mad soldering if you use this exact module, it's meant to be surface mount)

All you really need on this is the output stage as this does everything for you, simply outputting a ready made 13.56mhz square wave from a 5v supply.
(On second thoughts, there may need to be a diode in the output stage to protect the transistor from back EMF, I am not an electronics engineer so not entirely sure)

what would you use on pin 1 for the control?

Pin 1 apparently can be left unconnected, but probably an idea to tie it up to keep it on.
Just use a power switch on the +ve input to turn the thing on and off, no need to toggle the oscillator at all.

Quote: Pyrofer

For the cheapest build, look here,

http://www.newark.com/avx/k50-...-smd/dp/33K9509 (Prepare for some mad soldering if you use this exact module, it's meant to be surface mount)

All you really need on this is the output stage as this does everything for you, simply outputting a ready made 13.56mhz square wave from a 5v supply.
(On second thoughts, there may need to be a diode in the output stage to protect the transistor from back EMF, I am not an electronics engineer so not entirely sure)

So, does this mean it REPLACES the entire circuit you shared before? It does the whole job? Or would this go in as the oscillator/clock chip? I'm not feeling in the mood to hunt down the information at this time, LOL!

Oh, and I'd rather spend my time to save some money, at least on this.

niceguy1, The replaces the oscillator part of the circuit. You would still need the output transistor and antenna. You may need some other components which I am looking into.

Essentially that oscillator would feed a resistor to the base of the transistor which would handle the power switching output.

I am looking into the design of the output circuit a bit as it's NOT a simple task! I wish some RF engineer would come here and see this. I was always terrible at anything not digital when it came to electronics.

This is quite complex. I am still looking for a simple way to power the tags, but to give you an idea of what we are up against read this,
http://ww1.microchip.com/downl...otes/00710c.pdf

The studying I did in this field was maybe a course or two like 18 years ago, as a small segment of my degree, and I haven't used it since, I'm a LITTLE rusty, LOL! And 50 pages of PDF is a lot to read, Once I get around to doing this I'll probably look deeper into that.

i want to learn how to do this kinda stuff. im great at using schematics to troubleshoot vehicles but have no idea how to build something by looking at them. the marine corps is paying for 4 years of college. anybody have any suggestions for schools or what this would fall under school wise.

Electronic Engineering Degree would probably cover this sort of stuff. That, I will warn you is not an easy subject or one to be taken lightly.
Read about it here to see if you think it would suit you,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_engineering

It's a subject with lots of Math as well as practical skill required. Good luck! (Also, it would be a great one for Marine Corps, they love people that can fix stuff when it breaks)

Yes Electronic Engineering is the field..err course..lol.
Also Pyrofer is right...it is a major undertaking, and "lots of math" is an understatement.
Electronic Engineering can seriously tax your brain...i did a little of it..a long...long long time ago.

Math was my best subject. I was in advanced classes since 2nd grade. Only problem is its been about 10 years since I was in school.

do you think this would just take care of it? Do you think I can stick one of these under a lightcore and light it?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/789

Yes. That would do it.

That is almost the exact same hardware I linked to as separate modules on eBay a few posts up.

You would need to code some stuff to make it come on and stay on but that should be covered simply with the example code.

Wonderful! As soon as I get some funds in my bank account, I will make it! I will let you guys know if I am successful!

Ohhhh, interesting... I'm guessing that ring we see in her fingers would be their version of the "portal", it's what it uses to read RFID tags...

Yes, magicalt, please let us know how it goes! And no matter if it works or not, let us know exactly what you tried with it (what you connected to what, how you used it, etc). It'll help anyone else who wants to try this.

If you are willing to splash out on the Arduino and RFID shield it should be simple as running the example code...

If you want to save money check out arduino compatible boards on eBay and they also do RFID boards with the same controller chip that will work. You just need some wires between them, this could save you money.

Something to consider. Its cool having a display for lightcores and all but the problem i would have is that the leds would eventually burn out soon. Having it on consistintley may not be a good idea. Maybe putting the display on every once in a while but all the time wont be good. But thats just me. It probably depends on the lifespan of a lightcore led. Does anyone know how long it can last? At least for a consistent amount of time.

thats why i would like a switch. it would be more of a "hey, check this out" for me

Quote: Failinhearts

Something to consider. Its cool having a display for lightcores and all but the problem i would have is that the leds would eventually burn out soon. Having it on consistintley may not be a good idea. Maybe putting the display on every once in a while but all the time wont be good. But thats just me. It probably depends on the lifespan of a lightcore led. Does anyone know how long it can last? At least for a consistent amount of time.

The lifespan of LED's verys....depends on there type. Roughtly 6 years of continuous lighting....give or take a few years. Most are rated to last up to 25 years under normal household use. And yes a switch is a good idea.....no need to have them lit up if your not there to look at them, hence the idea to light them up in tthe first place.

6 years? Doesnt sound bad.

The number I usually hear is 10,000 hours. How long that IS depends on how much they're on, of course. 24/7 operation, that's actually less than a year and a half (weird, I would have thought more).

And I always figured if and when I implemented this I would include an on/off switch. It's so natural and obvious it seems like it should be in the schematic, actually.

Yes there are some at 10,000 hours. 10,000 hours is the shortest hour time LED.....but most are at 25,000 to 50,000 hours. Thats why i said "...depends on there type."
The skylanders use the "long life" type, for the very reason do to them being sealed in the figure.

This is a very odd question, but will the giants portal work with a USB wall charger for lighting up/lighting up the figures? I have two scrapped ones that are in the right shape for this, just a matter of running a cord down to one but want to be certain first.

Check out this Light Core:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck0JCaMt4tA

Has anyone actually build it recently and if so, can you share pictures and a list of components used? I'm not afraid to solder components together but I'm a bit rusty on figuring out which components to buy.

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd share some info. I've dissected a Tree Rex, and found, quick startling, that his LED's are powered by 2.69 Volts DC! I thought the voltage would be lower. I started to add articulation to Tree Rex (got both arms moving, and one elbow, but the right arm is really tricky with the LED wire), but was bothered by the whole 2.7V thing. Also, his leds are lit up by separate wires, and the wires are different colors, which means, there isn't just a simple loop in play here. Those of you who have tried the loop of wire and LED trick might have measured the voltage and found it in the millivolts. So eventually, curiosity got the better of me, and I popped Tree Rex off the base, and cut the base open. Found the tag, and a small circuit board attached! I bet it's a small RC filter, to convert AC to DC, but these are surface mount components so it's not obvious what everything is.

My son has been playing Tree Rex with just the NFC tag, it's kind of funny! I'm thinking of sculpting a different Tree Rex, and installing the tag in his foot, so you would have an articulated, baseless figure that you could use on the game!

Anyways, we're probably having a Skylander party for his birthday in August, so we're experimenting with some ideas. One being little party favors you can put on your portal, and have light up. The other, being a life sized portal of power that lights up lightcores.

Hi hope you share what you end up doing Baldwyn. I've been following this thread since its beginning and hope to one day create a display that activates the light cores and giants.

I took pyrofers advice and started school for electronics engineering. I played a lot with arduino but still havent messed with the skylander display.

The baseless Tree Rex sounds great!

If you wind your own antenna you have to be VERY careful, I doubt the existing tag will fit in just his foot.

I suggest you get another Tag with a normal wound wire antenna and steal that. It should be possible to remove the chip and fit a wire antenna on it. If you get a small keychain tag the wire will be wound much tighter and probably small enough to fit in his foot.

also, would love photos of the work on your articulated figure!

I almost had it! The RFID tag works in his body cavity, if you use the Swap Force Portal! But I wasn't careful enough with the RFID tag, and I broke it upon installation (one of the adhesive connections came apart). But he still lights up, and has four points of articulation. My son chose different light colors, just because we could.



I think I'll make future versions with the base, and just three points of articulation.

Very cool Baldwyn, well done.
Yeah the RFID tag are a bit picky do to them being so thin. You would think they would make them a bit more robust since there putting them in the base.
And making the LED's a different color is a great idea...also you can paint your remodel whatever color scheme you want.

Thanks!

Ok, so today I took the portal part, and tried some experiments with the copper wire. The size is important, it's related to the wavelength of the transmission frequency. A large circle did not work. More coils did not work. But this worked! (Two coils, two circles the size of the portal circles). My coils aren't perfect, and it seems that some guys (Bouncer and Lightcore Whirlwind) are fussier than others. Doesn't register them in the game, even with just one. I need to make a winding jig, and get more wires, but I think I'm on to something here. Unfortunately, it means it will make it hard to build a display that has the wire above the surface, a shelf with raised circles could look cool.

What exactly is powering the coils?

I think it's less about the size of the coils. I say this because the 3DS Portal and the Console portals are two totally different sizes and they both work. Also, the display I got has tiny, tiny coils and it works.

Xbox portal. Is the 3DS, and your display perhaps half the circumference of the console portals, but twice as many coils? I could see that, and can try it some point. I've tried twice the circumference, 2 coils (didn't work), but not half the circumference, 4 coils yet, mostly because I'm trying to go bigger, not smaller.

It's about the LENGTH of wire.

one large coil is the same as 2 coils half the size sort of thing.

Measure EXACTLY the total length of the portal coil and cut yours to match. Try to keep the windings even so they are all the same length if you have multiple coils.

Quote: Baldwyn

My coils aren't perfect, and it seems that some guys (Bouncer and Lightcore Whirlwind) are fussier than others.

Lightcore Whirlwind? ...... never seen one of those...pic please...lol
And your right...it is related to the wavelength of the transmission frequency...like Pyrofer said...its all about the LENGTH.

Realy?!? ....lets see those coils UncleBob. Always wanted to see the inside of one of those displays. And congratz on getting that display..wish i could get one.

Quote: Phoenix_Lord

Quote: Baldwyn

My coils aren't perfect, and it seems that some guys (Bouncer and Lightcore Whirlwind) are fussier than others.

Lightcore Whirlwind? ...... never seen one of those...pic please...lol
And your right...it is related to the wavelength of the transmission frequency...like Pyrofer said...its all about the LENGTH.

Realy?!? ....lets see those coils UncleBob. Always wanted to see the inside of one of those displays. And congratz on getting that display..wish i could get one.

I'll also be able to post pictures of the bottom of the display. UncleBob posted a few pics of the small nodule that lights up the figures when you give it power.

My display has no power supply, though.

Oops, Flashwing

ok well i know this is a super old topic and there is lots of info here but im not that good with electronic diagrams and such. but has anyone actually figured out a way to make a display that lights up the figures and built a display? i would like to work this into my displays but havent found anything that would work yet. a video would be amazing or a explanation thats not a foreign language to any none electronics expert.