darkSpyro

lets try this again

Yeti slam bam and Hulksmash slam bam

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=3

Eruptor collection

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=4

my new hot head

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=9

red goblin boomer

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=7

Iron patriot bouncer

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=8

Dalmation hot dog

http://s1288.photobucket.com/u...html?sort=3&o=5

This one is a solid Resin cast, the original "test" of the mold was Ice. It melted

I only have the photo to remember him by! Hence, this one.

I have lots of tips!!!

Do people want a guide on casting resin? There is a lot of info, and I warn you it isn't cheap!!!

I Used a load of 2 part Liquid Silicone to make a mold.

1) Simply put Eruptor in a box and pour the mixed silicone over him SLOWLY. Stand him at the bottom of the box and make sure the silicone completely covers him and also goes about 1cm above his highest feature.
It may help to stick him down with Blu-tak/Plasticine or something so Silicone doesn't leak under him.

2) Let set.

3) Carefully with a super sharp knife cut around the edge of the figure to separate the mold into ALMOST two halves.
Start at the bottom, by the base which should be visible outside the silicone and work down till you are about 2cm away from the "top" of the mold where his hands are.

4) Do step 3 on both sides and carefully pry the mold apart, using the knife cut the section between his legs free.

5) Pull the mold apart (not completely!) and gently wiggle Eruptor out of the mold.

6) let Gently fit back together again, replace it in the box upside down so the hole for the base is now at the top.

Next, casting.

Mix Resin (That is a whole 'nother story!) and slowly pour into the mold.
Tip the mold around as you do so to get rid of air pockets, some of these are VERY hard to get rid of without cutting extra air channels. Pour about 30% of the resin in and tip the mold around a lot then a bit more, repeat until full.
When I say full Fill until the resin reaches the bottom of the BASE of the figure, not your stick down material. There should be a little gap left at the top so it doesn't overflow.

I pushed an actual RFID chip into the bottom about 1mm before I finished filling, so the chip is encased inside the resin. Only do this if you have a spare RFID chip from a Skylander
It helps to let the resin set a bit so its gooey before putting the rfid chip in, don't try to push it down, simply pour more resin over the top of it.

Let set.

Carefully remove Resin from mold, shouldn't require cutting.

There are many youtube guides to doing all parts of this.

Here is the one and only (as far as I know) Lightcore Hyperbeam Prism Break. He looks better in person, can't get a good shot of him on camera.

Quote: j32bass

Here is the one and only (as far as I know) Lightcore Hyperbeam Prism Break. He looks better in person, can't get a good shot of him on camera.

And why did you put it in the CUSTOM section?

@j32bass the Sky Diamond in that pic is making me think you should try to make a LightCore of that, too.

Here is the one and only (as far as I know) Lightcore Hyperbeam Prism Break. He looks better in person, can't get a good shot of him on camera.

Very cool j32bass, well done ...What size/type LED's did you use?...i was wanting to do the same thing to my Hyperbeam Prism Break.
Please share with us how you tolk him apart to put the LED's in with out braking the RFID chip...im really having a hard time getting the base cap off.

• I tried to use Acetone to melt the glue around his feet (I wouldn't have tried this on a working toy in case it may damage the RFID chip). The right foot popped out easily but the left one was glued in extremely well. I ended up cutting it out. Heating seems like the best way to unglue pieces without cutting. This is why his feet have large areas of paint loss.
  
• The joints are pretty loose and can fall out too easily, I hope painting/sealing will fix this problem. I originally used the 4mm joints on the wings but they were too heavy to support them so I had to use the 6mm ones.
  
• I used a 5/64" dremel drill bit for the 4mm joints and 7/64" dremel drill bit for the 6mm joints, they were the best-fitting for what I had in my little drill bit set. Like noted above, the 4mm joint has a smaller peg size than the 6mm+ joints.
  
• In total, Sunburn used 10 4mm and 2 6mm joints. If you plan on using Revo joints for yourself, it doesn't hurt to buy an extra packet of joints or another size in case you need them.
  

Should i costumize?

Hey guys, these custom figures look EPIC! I have a few spare Skylanders just chilling and you all have inspired me to try it myself. This has probably been asked already but is it special paint that you use and do you have to strip the original colour first? Thanks

Quote: skylander_crazy

Hey guys, these custom figures look EPIC! I have a few spare Skylanders just chilling and you all have inspired me to try it myself. This has probably been asked already but is it special paint that you use and do you have to strip the original colour first? Thanks

Yes there is...never use Enamel Paint....sometimes it dries fine, but most of the time it remains tacky....and never dries. Only use Acrylic Paints...
I have a large selection of different brands, but i use Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint the most.



Testors makes Acrylic also, they call there's Model Master Acryl...but look at the bottle carefully...they almost look the same.



Also ...no you don't need to strip the original paint first.
Have fun with your repaints.

Quote: Dark Bro

Should i costumize?

Well you can if you want to....just takes time an patience bro

Nice work there Okaps...he's coming along rather well...and the sayin' is 'measure twice...cut once"
Anyways....been procrastinating on getting the decals done on my Lightcore Epic Ultra Hex(eye brows an eye liners)....finaly got around to doing it...lol.



Just wish the Pearl White showed up better in the photo's....only one that showed up somewhat ok was Epic Ultra Eye-Brawl...maybe it is do to his larger size...